English treachery and Spanish Ghosts in Ireland

Imagine ... it is mid November and you are walking over some of the most beautiful coastal countryside in Southern Ireland. The gentle sea breezes are caressing you from the far reaches of the Atlantic; there lingers a softness and a warmth from the summer months as they live out their last few days while hinting at the storms and harshness of the winter which is to come.

Dingle Peninsular,  County Kerry

You are on the Dingle Peninsular in County Kerry.

But wait ... all is not what it seems. In spite of the tranquil breeze your body suddenly stiffens as you get a contact with a dreadful event from over 400 years ago. There is a ghastly stench of rotting bodies which, although you’ve never met such a smell before, you identify instantly. And writhing within the breeze there are distinct sounds of calling, pleading ... the yells and screams of people condemned to a violent death.

So what happened?  The records are varied but what is known involves a Papal conspiracy, Catholic soldiers from Spain and Italy and fierce battles with the English who were running rampant over Ireland during those troubled times.

It all came to a head at Fort del Oro on the Dingle headland in November 1580. A party of about 600 Spanish and Italian soldiers had been financed by the Pope to carry the battle of religious reform to the heretics of Elizabeth’s England. But soon, after some initial success they became trapped on the headland with an English army before them and English Ships behind them. They had no choice but to surrender.

They were unfortunate in that terms were negotiated with General Grey who was not known for honourable behaviour. He gave guarantees that all lives would be spared but then brutally executed all 600 of the captives. Indeed some even had their heads buried while their bodies were thrown into the sea.

Now, centuries later local stories are abundant. Many visitors who speak Spanish have identified the agonies on the wind as pleas for mercy. And local fishermen have often sighted heads and bodies floating close to the shore which mysteriously disappear when approached.

Finally, it is a strange twist in fate that such horror can be visited upon such a beautiful and tranquil place; perhaps “Perfidious Albion” should be blamed. But to those who’ve seen, heard and smelled them, the history and ghosts are very real.

In Association with the Western Gazette 

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