Cerne Abbas is a beautiful little village in the south of Dorset where
early religious beliefs managed to find a happy cohabitation with paganism.
During the late 9th century a Benedictine
Abbey was built there to commemorate St Edwold the Hermit who had settled in
the valley close to the river Cerne about 150 years previously. This Abbey
dominated the surrounding countryside for about 500 years until Henry VIII’s
vandals swooped down from the high ground with a view to destruction and the
sacking of the Abbey’s wealth. This depredation was pretty complete with just a
few of the outhouses surviving amongst the ruins. But luckily, the 14th century
Church of St Mary managed to survive, along with the ancient tradition of beer
making which made good use of the particularly pure water in the area- one
wonders whether the monks had a more pragmatic reason for basing themselves
there than the purely religious one! The thought of riotous monks staggering to
bed after vespers is indeed a dreadful picture of unbridled sin! And then, over
the next few hundred years an energetic market town developed with no less than
14 taverns which served as coaching Inns.
In chapter 3 of my book Catacombs of theDamned, I look briefly at a typical village with a coaching Inn and a historic
church, where there are years of hidden history involved. Much of this is a
juxtaposition of Christian/Pagan history.
This Christianity lives side by side with pagan
beliefs in Cerne Abbas which is a fine example of religious pragmatism. The Cerne Giant is a very famous feature of Dorset and is steeped in pagan
beliefs.
His history is uncertain but many believe he started
out as an iron age (about 300 BC) fertility symbol. Others give him Danish or
Roman antecedents. There is even a story that he was drawn to mark the
humiliation of one of the early Abbots for “conduct unbecoming”. This
appears to have been a precursor to a 21st century problem, “plus ca change,
plus c’est la meme chose” as Alphonse Karr so succinctly put it. But it does
seem reasonable that the Giant was part of a pagan religious centre. Many
Christian Churches were built close to such centres in the hope that followers
of the old religion would become followers of the new.
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